The way you wear a suit can make a difference between just wearing it and wearing it well. We share some top rules for suit wearing so that you stand out for all the right reasons and look sharp in that suit. So, whether you’re after that new job, buying your first suit for prom or attending a function, let’s take a look at the things you need to know. 

Buy a well fitting suit

A man can look really good in a suit – or not so good. An ill fitting suit is not a good look. Be sure to find the right jacket that is not too loose or too tight across the chest. As a guide, you should be able to fit your hand beneath the jacket and your chest without it feeling too tight. The shoulders of a suit are the hardest to tailor so start with the shoulders and getting the right fit there 

The jacket should be long enough that it covers the zip of your trousers and the seat of your pants. 

The trousers should be long enough to meet the top of your shoes and show no socks but not too long that they ruche up at the bottom.

Top tip – When wearing a new jacket for the first time, be sure to remove the stitching on the vents and the label on the left sleeve. Do not remove the jacket pocket stitching and never use those pockets. 

Choose a shirt that isn’t too tight  

You don’t want to look, or feel like the shirt is choking you so make sure you can get two fingers better the collar of your shirt and your throat. Air on the side of caution and go for slightly bigger than going for a size that pinches. 

Shirt cuffs should not go over your hands. Quarter of an inch of the cuff should be visible below the sleeve of the jacket. 

The collar should fit well. Don’t try and squeeze into an old shirt that used to fit – treat yourself to a new one and pick the right size. Getting measured is a great idea as it will save you money buying the wrong sized clothes. 

Button it 

Believe it or not, there are a whole bank of rules of suit wearing when it comes to the buttons of your jacket and shirt.

Don’t button the bottom button of a suit jacket. Whether it’s a custom made suit, or one you have bought off the shelf, only ever do up the middle button. If it is a three-button suit you can button the top button when standing, the middle is always buttons and the bottom never. This is the same for vests and cardigans. 

When sitting down, be sure to unbutton the jacket. This prevents ruining the shape of the suit and any risk of popping a button as you sit down.  

Keep the top button of your shirt buttoned. All of the shirt buttons are meant to stay closed, even the top one! So, if you are thinking, ‘but it’s uncomfortable’ then it is time to get a new shirt. 

Colours

Black for a funeral but not for anything else. Choose a dark suit – charcoal or navy is ideal – then make sure you match it well with he shirt, tie, pocket square, shoes etc. The suit comes first as this is the most expensive item generally. Everything else can be chosen to match. You can add personality to a dark suit with a light shirt and colourful tie however, dress for the occasion, Be mindful of the audience/occasion and what is acceptable and what might not be.

The tie

We have a whole guide to how to tie a tie but follow this rule and make sure that your tie ends at your belt. No longer, no shorter. 

If not wearing a tie, opt for a smaller shirt collar. 

Sock rules

Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks. They also shouldn’t be too long. When you sit down, you will of course see the socks so make sure they are long enough that your hairy legs aren’t on display when you sit down. If you are going for bold choices with your socks, consider your environment and wether they are suitable. If you are somewhat of a character you can pull it off but you may want to think the Star Wars socks for that job interview. 

Match your belt and your shoes 

Wearing a leather belt? Make sure it is the same shade and colour as your shoes. This also applies to a leather watch strap. Ideally, your belt should be an inch/inch and a half in width.

Don’t match your pocket square to your tie 

You may have been thinking the opposite was required and that they should be the same pattern and fabric however, they shouldn’t. While colour is fine, vary the fabric and pattern or choose colours that compliment each other. 

If you would like help and advice when it comes to choosing a suit for an occasion and the rules of suit wearing, Salters of Rugby are happy to help. Just book an appointment to come in and see us.